Trekking Poles: When They Help, When They Don't, How to Use Them
Trekking poles are the most argued-about item in hiking, mostly by people using them incorrectly or not at all. The evidence and the field practice actually agree: for descents, loads, and long days, poles are worth their weight; for scrambly terrain and short flat walks, they're clutter.
What the research supports
- Reduced lower-limb loading. Studies of pole use on descents show meaningful reductions in forces at the knee and reduced muscle soreness and markers of muscle damage after mountain hiking compared with no-pole controls.
- Stability. Four points of contact measurably reduce balance excursions on uneven ground and stream crossings — the mechanism behind fewer ankle rolls.
- Slightly higher energy cost, better endurance. Arms working costs a little more oxygen, but perceived exertion for the legs drops — a trade most hikers happily make late in a long day.
Sizing and grip
Standing on flat ground with the tip by your foot, your elbow should bend at roughly 90°. Then adjust by terrain: shorten 5–10 cm for sustained climbs, lengthen 5–10 cm for descents. Use the straps correctly — hand up through the loop from below, so the strap bears weight across the back of the hand and you grip lightly. Most hikers skip the strap and death-grip the pole, which fatigues the forearms and forfeits half the benefit.
Technique by terrain
| Terrain | Technique |
|---|---|
| Moderate trail | Alternating swing, opposite pole to forward foot — it happens naturally; don't overthink |
| Steep climb | Plant both poles together, step up twice, repeat; shortened poles |
| Steep descent | Plant ahead and slightly out, lengthened poles, let arms take real braking load (descent mechanics) |
| Stream crossings | Two planted points at all times; face slightly upstream |
| Rock scrambles | Stow them — hands beat poles when terrain needs grabbing |
When to leave them collapsed
Short flat hikes, dense brush, and Class 2+ scrambling. If your route mixes terrain, buy poles that collapse small enough to stow on the pack, and practice the transition so you actually do it.
Buying: the features that matter and the ones that don't
Pole marketing runs ahead of pole physics; here is the short version. Locking mechanism matters most: external lever locks are field-adjustable with gloves and hold reliably; old-style internal twist locks are the ones that collapse mid-descent — avoid them. Material: aluminum bends and survives; carbon is lighter but can snap under sideways load between rocks — aluminum for rough terrain and travel abuse, carbon for weight-counters on good trails. Grip: cork conforms and manages sweat best, foam is light and fine, rubber gets slick in heat; extended grip sections below the main grip are genuinely useful for choking down on traverses without re-adjusting length. Folding style: telescoping poles adjust widely; Z-fold poles pack smallest for stowing on scrambles and in luggage. Skip: anti-shock springs (added weight and mush for a benefit studies struggle to find) and integrated camera mounts. Baskets deserve one sentence: small trekking baskets year-round, swapped to wide snow baskets in winter, or the pole simply spears through soft snow to no effect (winter guide).
Budget honestly: mid-priced aluminum lever-lock poles deliver nearly all the function of flagship models, and a lost or bent pair stings less. Spend the difference on the layers or filter you'll notice more.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do trekking poles really reduce knee pain?
They reduce knee loading on descents, which is where most hiking knee pain originates, and multiple studies report less post-hike soreness. They help most when paired with descent technique and quad strength rather than substituting for them.
One pole or two?
Two, for anything beyond casual walking. A single pole helps balance but creates asymmetric loading and provides no real braking system on descents.